Fontainhas – Little Portugal in India

By Murli Menon

The anticipation of travel is almost like falling in love! You choose a destination and an adventure that makes your heart leap and your pulse race. When you arrive, you do not know how it will turn out to be, a casual flirtation, a torrid affair, a long term relationship or if after all the planning and expectation, there is just no chemistry!

Enough of Goa‘s beaches. Now, it’s time to revel in the long history of Portuguese influence in the form of Fontainhas Latin Quarter which stands still in pride with all its glory.It is the centre of attraction of the capital city Panjim.Flanked by Ourem creek in the East and Altinho hills in the west, Fountainhas still exudes Portuguese charm and  the radiance of old days does seep through like a newly formed bud kissed by the morning dew. It gets its name from the Fountain of Phoenix, the mountain stream located at the foot of Altinho Hills.

Fountainhas Street is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located in Panjim city, the capital of Goa. Locals still refer this street as “Little Portugal in Goa”. Fountainhas was founded by an aristocratic Portuguese gentleman named Antônio João de Sequeira for the purpose of coconut plantations. But, in the early 1800s, due to the spread of plague in Old Goa, the Portuguese government headquarters was shifted to Panjim. As a result, this area was transformed into the residential area for Portuguese administrative officers and staff. It was recognized by UNESCO in 1984.

The walk through this street transports you to Portugal of the 1800’s. Large colourful European styled houses, stand side by side like a European fortress. Bungalows coloured bright yellow to ruby red to cobalt blue jostle with each another for space in this quaint Latin quarter of Panjim which can only be accessed on foot. The streets are narrow and full of European styled bistros, cafes and bakeries. Many heritage homestays, hotels and lodges are scattered around Fontainhas street.

It is indeed, one of the most visited places in Goa. Breathtaking vibes of old cafes and bakeries, colonial charm of Portuguese buildings, art galleries, red brick wishing well and old Portuguese churches and old streets like 18th June Street and Rua 31 De Janeiro Street will transport you back to time of  Portuguese influence.

Colonial architecture is one of a kind. Slate tiled roofs, dark wooden doors, white and blue tiled plaques, maroon red and mustard yellow houses are  the most fascinating sights to behold at Fountainhas. Your visit to Goa will be incomplete without visiting the old-world charm of this Portuguese heritage. February is the best time to visit, as it is a festive month. The Fountain Festival is held every year in the month of February. Tourists from all over the world visit here during this time to enjoy local Goan culture and art. Locals  turn their houses into art galleries and homestays during this festival.

Altinho Hill will give you breathtaking views of Fontainhas Latin Quarter and the tangerine colored Maruti Hindu Temple. Don’t forget to go to the Phoenix Fountain, which is another famous landmark at Altinho Hill.

The names of the narrow cobbled streets can also be traced back to the Portuguese time in Goa, for instance, Rua 31 de Janeira (31st January Road) is named after the day when Portugal got independence from Spain on January 31, 1640; and 18th June Street is named after the day in 1946 that marked the beginning of the end of Portuguese rule in Goa. Marvel at the old Portuguese houses that date back to the 18th and 19th centuries. Painted in hues of green, pale yellow, and blue, along with red-colored tiled roofs, artistic doors, and overhead balconies, you’ll instantly fall head over heels with the rows of traditional Portuguese houses and cottages that cover the narrow, winding landscape. One of the intriguing features of the houses and cottages in Fontainhas is that they are painted every year after monsoons; it’s a rule which is followed till today. One of the historic houses has a red coloured wishing well with roosters erected on it. The well is no more in use, but you can spend some quiet time here, enjoy the beautiful sights, and soak up the local atmosphere.

How to get there?

By air: The nearest international airport to reach Goa is at Mumbai. There are several option for Portuguese tourists to get to Goa from Mumbai . Goa  domestic Airport at Vasco  is about 40 km. away from Panjim. Goa  is connected by direct flights from Mumbai, New Delhi and Bangalore.

Where to stay?:

Laguna Anjuna Resort is an affordable place to stay. They are extremely affordable by Indian standards during May-October which is a low season. A standard double-room costs approximately 45Euro (inclusive of breakfast). Budget conscious European tourists frequent this eco-friendly resort at this time of the year. The rooms are spacious and can comfortably accommodate a family of four (with extra beds). The bathrooms are comfortable with hot water showers and mini-bathtubs. Advance booking is recommended during February at Laguna Anjuna, which is a 60 minute drive away from Panjim.

Where to eat?:

Several restaurants offering Indian vegetarian cuisine are located in and around Panjim. Several make-shift street-side stalls selling snacks are also found here. Several European style bistros and cafes serving healthyvegetarian fare are found at Fountainhas. Murli Menon is a travel writer based at Ahmedabad. He is the bestselling author of 25 Travel Guides on Amazon.com titled “ZeNLP Travel Guides”. Murli Menon can be reached at ceo@tips4ceos.com

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